Service Manuals Be aware that some of these files are very large. A new page- Windows users-to save File- right click, and choose 'Save Target as.- Mac users, double click and choose 'save as'. I'm still putting new files up as time permits. I have found that a couple of people are downloading the manuals from here (and other websites) and selling them on eBay, so I have marked some of the pdf files with a final page, but.
That does break pdf files every now and then, so if you get repeated errors, email me at the and let me know which file is broken. I am also working on scanning all of my older, obsolete manuals to put here- if you have an old service manual and can scan it to a tiff, gif, or jpeg file, let me know! Jump down to or or Refrigerator Service Manuals The 'Master' refrigerator service manual- nearly every model since the early 1990's is in this one. (Updated 11/04/05) The 'Check light' problem bulletin.
A good place to start if you are having the dreaded 'check light comes on' trouble. Pay close attention to the rewiring instructions.
Dometic RM 77 service manual- an oldy but goody. Also covers the RM 24, 36, 46, 47, 66, 67 and 76. There are still a lot of the old workhorses out there working well. 'First generation' electronic controls. Models include RM663, 763, 1303, 3500, 3600, 3800, 3601, 3801. Non-electronic controlled refrigerators. Covers nearly all of the manually controlled refrigerator built in the 1980s and 90s.
Dometic RM360 RM460 RM660 and RM760 Service manual Dometic MC16, M27, M28, MA35, MA40, M50, M52, MA52, MB52, M70. Dated Feb., 1969- of historic interest, covers every model from the Dometic introduction in 1958 to 1969.
Dometic RM 2150, 2190, 2201 Service manual. These are the compact models. Dometic RM2191 and RM2193 Installation and Operating manual Dometic refrigerator technical data sheets- give orifice sizes and heating element values (both wattage and resistance). Dometic RM2612 2812 Installation and Operation manual Dometic 12 Series and 52 Series Service manual Dometic RM3762 3962 'New Generation' service manual Dometic AMES/AES service tips- covers Silhouttet S15/31,S1821/31, RM2607/11, 2807/11, 3607, 3807, RM3662/3663.3862/3863, RM4872/4873 Dometic RM8000 series manual- covers the new European style RM8000 series Dometic RM1350 series manual- covers the 4 door series Servel Service manual- for late model Servel RV refrigerators (built by Dometic). Norcold N260 manual. Norcold N300 manual.
Norcold N500/N510 manual. Norcold 600 manual. Norcold 865, 866 and 868 series service manual. Norcold 400 series service manual. Covers 442, 443, 452, 453, 462, 463, 482 and 483. (Note there is a recall on these models).
Norcold N Series manual. Covers N61X, N62X, N64X Norcold 'NoCo' reset instructions, for older models Norcold 'NoCo' reset instructions, for new models Norcold 'NoCo' reset instructions, all models Norcold Power and Display board troubleshooting, covers most N series models. Norcold 1200LR Series manual. (Updated 11/10/05) Norcold 1210 Series manual. Norcold 2117 Series manual. Norcold 900 Series manual. Norcold 3163 Services manual.
Norcold 'Non- TEK II' Dual Electric service manual. Covers DE 828, 704C, 728, 400C, 251D, 250F, 254, 230 and others. Norcold 'TEKII' AC/DC service manual. Norcold DE/DC Models, covers DC440, 451, 490, DE441, 451, 461, 490, MRFT415, 440, 490 Norcold DE/DC Models, covers DC440, 451, 490, DE441, 451, 461, 490, MRFT415, 440, 490, different than above Norcold Ice Maker manual. Norcold Ice maker service bulletin.
Deals with a freezing issue on all Norcold gas/electric refrigerators with factory installed ice makers. Atwood Helium refrigerator HE-0601 and HE-0801 Service manual Instamatic IM-40, IM-60, IM-70 and IM-90 (Innovator series) Service manual. Dated 1979, there are still a lot of these around, and many parts are still available.A little cleaner than it first was. Instamatic IM-140, 160, 270 and 290 (Classic series) Service manual. Same comments as above. Furnace Service Manuals DuoTherm 659 Series Owners/Service manual (through -049, but applies somewhat to later models, as well) Direct Spark Ignition System Service Guide Pilot type troubleshooting guide.
DuoTherm 901 Series furnace Owners manual- has good troubleshooting advice- also applies somewhat to the DuoTherm 900 series. Suburban Technical Information- a good, general manual with parts and their functions.
Applies to nearly all new models. Very good information. Suburban NT series (newer), including NT- 12S NT- 16S NT-20S NT-24SP NT-30SP NT-34SP NT-25K NT-30K NT-35K NT-42T Suburban NT and SF series, later than above. Covers including NT- 12, 16, 20, 24, 30, 34, 40, suffix S, SE, SP, and SF 20, 25, 30, 35, 42 plus F suffix. Suburban SF Series, one that I compiled- has some removal, cleaning and electrode adjustment instructions. Really applies to 'F' suffix, but might help for all series Suburban NT 20 A-AD, NT22A-AD-CS-CDS, NT30A-AD-CS-CDS service manual.Note.- these models are no longer supported by Suburban- for informational (and historic) purposes only.
Hydroflame Tech information- covers most new models, with installation information and troubleshooting. Highly recommended.
A newer Hydroflame manual than the above- 2004 version, less theory but more troubleshooting- includes thermostats. Hydroflame FA-72, HF-77, FA-79, DC-82, and AC-82 series service manual- Dated Jan, 1985. Hydroflame 7200, 7600 and 7700 series service manual.
Air Conditioner and Heat Pump Service manuals DuoTherm Air Conditioner services manual- both roof top and basement air conditioners and heat pumps (also includes the Comfort Control Center).updated 11/02/05. DuoTherm Comfort Control Center Service manual- '4 button' version. Probably has more than is needed, lots of info on initial setup. DuoTherm Comfort Control Center 4 button troubleshooting- including reset info. DuoTherm Comfort Control Center 5 button troubleshooting manual.
If you are unfamiliar with how a motorhome air conditioning system works, will help you understand which parts of the motorhome rooftop air conditioner unit to check, service, and repair. Briefly, your air conditioner, which may be combined with a heating system, includes a compressor—to circulate a cooling fluid like Freon through the coils and fins of the condenser—and a fan, to blow cooled air through the RV. The fan and compressor are turned on and off by a thermostat—a switch attached to a thermometer—and kick-started by one or more capacitors. The thermostat and other controls are run by the vehicle's 12-volt electrical system. If your AC does nothing and makes no noise, make sure your unit and its controls are getting power. If your AC fan or compressor is slow to start, doesn't blow any air, blows weakly, blows only warm air, stops after a while, dims your lights, or trips your breaker, you should first check your capacitors and replace them if needed. If there's no air blowing, check the fan capacitor; if there's no cooling, check the compressor capacitor.
If the capacitor is okay, you should look at whether the thermostat is getting power by checking whether the 12-volt appliaces work. You can check the function of the thermostat if it's wall-mounted. If the unit only works when thermostat wires are touching, the thermostat is bad. The thermostat is easy to replace. If the capacitor and thermostat are okay, the control board may be bad. If the control board is okay, you may have to replace the fan motor or the compressor.
If the fan only works at certain speeds, the fan motor may be bad. You can have the fan motor rebuilt (if it's not the sleeved-bearing type).
Or you can replace the fan motor yourself if the unit is in good shape otherwise. If the compressor is bad, it should probably be replaced, not fixed. If your system drips or overheats, the coils may need cleaning. If the roof AC leaks, the bolts may be loose or the gasket may be leaking. If the system is very cold or ice builds up, it may be low on Freon. If the unit is noisy, something out of place may be interfering with its motors; you can check by removing the shroud.
If the fan or the compressor fail to start, it is possible the starting capacitor is malfunctioning. A bad capacitor can cause a variety of symptoms: the AC unit merely hums and 'tries' to start, it runs a few minutes then trips a breaker, the fan won't start without a push, or it blows only hot air because the compressor can't start. The capacitor stores electricity to give both the fan motor and the compressor an extra boost whenever the RV AC unit starts.
It is not unusual for the capacitor to go bad, especially if the RV sits unused for a while, and not be able to provide that little push that gets the motors going. On occasion a bad capacitor will explode with a puff of smoke without damaging the rest of the unit. There may be one capacitor for both compressor and fan, two capacitors (one for each part), or even three or more all together. A capacitor is often shaped like a small battery, flask, or button. If you have a multimeter in your tool kit, you can use it to test the capacitor.
A good capacitor should show a random value on the multimeter that slowly decreases the longer you keep the probes in place. A bad capacitor is easy to replace. Check the required voltage and model numbers on the old capacitor when ordering a new one. When replacing it, make sure the power is off.
Observe which wires go into it where, and make a note so you can install the new one exactly the same way. Don't touch its terminals with your bare hands. Before you throw the old capacitor away, drain out its electrical charge by connecting its terminals with a screwdriver (make sure the screwdriver handle you are holding is insulated).
Very often, your AC unit will start and run fine after you replace a capacitor. A bad thermostat is another possibility. If you have a wall-mounted thermostat, you can check it by checking its voltage with your multimeter. If the unit only goes on when you touch the thermostat wires to each other, the thermostat is definitely bad. If the thermostat and capacitors are all okay but the AC still doesn't work, you may have a bad control board.
Thermostats and switches may be purchased online by finding the correct model and serial numbers before ordering the new parts. These items are easy to replace in most cases. As always, make note of and remember the wiring connections when replacing these electrical components. If after you check these electrical items your AC still doesn't blow out air, or it blows only at certain speeds, your fan motor may be bad.
If your AC blows but only hot air comes out, your compressor may be bad. Sometimes—not necessarily—a fan or compressor smokes or leaks oil when it goes bad. A compressor that is working should turn on audibly and feel warm to the touch. You can test a compressor with a clamp-on ammeter, if you can rent or borrow one. Check how many amps the compressor is drawing.
If it draws much more current than the amp rating written on the unit or on a nearby plate, the compressor is toast. Fan motors come in two types: with exposed bearings which may be lubricated easily or with sleeved bearings (see the last photo in the article). The first type of fan motor may be rebuilt fairly cheaply and will last for many more years.
But not so a sleeved-bearing AC fan motor. Unlike fan motors with bearings, a fan motor with sleeves cannot be rebuilt economically, and must be replaced with a new one if it goes bad. If your AC unit seems to be in pretty good shape otherwise, you can order a new AC fan motor to fit your particular unit.
There are many sizes and models to choose from. Check the numbers on your old motor. By looking at pictures and descriptions on Amazon you may be able to identify a universal motor that will fit your unit. Replacement of the AC fan motor is a simple job requiring only a few tools. If the electrical connection to the motor isnt a simple plug-in, mark down the colors of the wires before removing the old fan motor. Test the new fan motor, before replacing the AC shroud, to check for proper alignment and fan clearance. If your AC does run, but only with problems—overheating, dripping, being way too cold—you can address these problems too.
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Overheating may be due to a simple failure to clean the coils—something I show you how to do in the second half of this article. When the coils are clean they can disperse excess heat into the air.
If water leaks into your unit and seems to come from the AC, investigate to see where it is coming from. The leak may come from the gasket between the unit and the roof; if so, it's easy to address.
Tighten the bolts carefully, and if that doesn't work, replace the gasket. Dripping from the unit itself may be caused by water condensing in the wrong place (in the pan under the air conditioner) instead of being evaporated by the fan. Such water buildup may be due to dirty coils, and if so, you can cure it by cleaning the coils. If your unit blows very cold and builds up ice—and especially if it later stops cooling at all—it may be low on Freon.
Sometimes you can see a visible oily residue around a Freon leak. You may be able to add Freon to your system yourself with a self-piercing valve.
If your motor is noisy, you can investigate the problem by taking the shroud (the cover) off the roof AC unit and seeing if everything is in place. The rubber shock absorbers on the compressor and fan may be interfering with the motion of the unit. Maintenance gives your AC longer life and better efficiency. Roof air conditioning units on motorhomes are the same as ones used on other types of RV campers such as travel trailers and pop-up campers. These repair and maintenance procedures are identical for all these types of campers. After a few seasons of use, it isn’t unusual for the AC unit to not cool the motorhome as quickly or as efficiently as it once did.
Even if you clean the filters regularly, the evaporator and condenser coils will eventually become coated with dirt and grime, which inhibits airflow and cooling efficiency. Before attempting any maintenance or repairs on the rooftop AC unit, be sure to switch off the electrical supply to the unit, either by tripping the breaker or by unplugging the motorhome from the electrical receptacle. You are now ready to remove the RV AC shroud (above) by unscrewing the four bolts securing it to the RV AC unit itself.
After removing the AC shroud you will be able to see the evaporator and condenser coils on either end of the RV AC unit. If they appear similar to those in the photos above then they need a thorough cleaning to allow unrestricted airflow through them. Although regular household cleaners may clean the coils to a certain extent, AC coil cleaners made especially for the purpose, like ZEP Foaming Coil Cleaner, will remove the grime build-up much more efficiently and will not harm the coils themselves. Follow the instructions carefully for the best results. A good wet/dry Shop Vac will help you clean up afterward and remove any excess cleaner or grime from the RV AC unit. While the RV AC shroud is removed, it is a good time to service the fan motor and clean the fan itself. Whether your RV AC unit is made by Coleman, Carrier, Duotherm, or Dometic, it will have one fan motor which turns both the squirrel-cage fan and the heat exhausting fan.
This motor should be oiled at this time. If your RV AC fan motor has regular bearings, there will be oiling ports at each end of the motor. It may be necessary to remove the metal sheeting over the top of the fan motor, plus a few sheet metal screws, to access the bearing oiling ports.
If no oil ports are evident, then your motor has sleeves instead of bearings. You may still oil the shaft at the point where the sleeves enter the fan motor housing. The oil will seep inside and help the fan motor last much longer. Hello Randy, Thank you for this site. We have a 2015 Southwind 32 with two dometic roof airs.
When we drive, in hot weather, we run them off the Onan 5500 generator. After 20-45 min they stop functioning, even tho the generator is still running. We stop the generator, reset the main cabin and aux. Rocker switches, wait a bit, then power up, and after a bit they come back on only to do the same thing again, in a matter of time. We have tried running just one, but the same result. At night, when sleeping, they work off the generator, as designed, no problem. Any thoughts?
Ronnie Sue, yes it's relatively easy to replace a capacitor. You probably have one each for the compressor and fan motor. Just be careful when changing the caps to not touch the terminals with your bare hands unless you discharge them first by crossing the terminals with a screwdriver. I sell a lot of capacitors from Amazon which is where you can go to see what you're looking for and for finding a replacement capacitor. Cost around $25 or so.Just remove the shroud to access the caps.
I have 3 Dometic 15000 BTU A/C units, model is either 630515 or 630516. We are on 30 amp service and have been running only 1 unit at a time. It's very hot here (100+) and we left one unit running while we went out for the day.
We came back to find the circuit breaker was tripped and of course the a/c unit was off. We are getting the motor to run, but no cool air.
I read a comment/article here which makes it sound like a capacitor? Do you have any suggestions as to what my next step is? If it is a capacitor, is that something that is easy (for a handy person) to fix? Where to purchase capacitor? Thanks so much.
I'm glad i found this website! I have 2013 Salem TT with a domestic roof top air. The unit runs and cools but the compressor stays on until the thermostat temp is reached. The compressor does not seem to be cycling to prevent the coil from freezing up. It will eventually freeze up and chunks of Ice will fall off the coil into the squire fan and over flow the drain pan and leak into the trailer. I have cleaned the coils and flushed out the drain holes. There are no oily spots around the compressor or coils that I could see.
I have ran the unit and stuck the thermocouple in a cup of Ice water for a few minutes would this be an indication that the thermal couple is bad. My older rooftop coleman awlways works great no problem. Ive had camper 4 summers. Used it on july 4.lots od water dripping off side of roof.
This past week had company staying in it,plugged camper into house outside outlet. A/C wouldnt bliw cold air, hooked up generator,still no cold air.
Company leaves today i turn thermostat up to 37,and on a whim turn on A/C.it works its bliwing cold air. DoI take it in to be serviced and cleaned,my fan doesn't work on med,only low and high.i have never cleaned A/C unit. The quote is 200$ to look at it and remedy problem but now its blowing cold. What should i do? I have 2 rooftop Acs duotherm on my 2001 National RV. The back unit (not the thermostat but up in the in the unit itself) makes a sound similar to a thermostat clicking intermittently even with the breaker off. It works fine when on, cold air etc but this clicking drives us nuts.
It clicks no matter the settings on the thermostat (Like temp set all the way up or down, fan auto or on, system set off, cool, heat) and breaker off I can only get rid of it by cutting the power completely to the coach (battery disconnect). Wow, I just lost my whole.paragraph. Guess that's a hint to shorten it up. Just bought a 99 26 ft Jayco Eagle that I am really unsure of the history on. Everything works including the A/C which has been running on auto about 78 degrees low speed for 3 weeks. 4 days ago the breaker flipped.
I went on the roof removed the shroud, looked at everything, I don't possess the skill set to check a compressor or capacitor. Lubed her up, straightened the fins and she came back on. It stopped running again last night and did not flip a breaker. It will not come back on now. What do you suggest.
Dometic Rv Air Conditioner Parts
So no one is open. The AC is the original, she runs cold when on. I found something on it that says FASCO made in Mexico HP 1/3, amp 3.4 =Capacitor? Then on the compressor the date is H2898, Serial number 311926, motor info TCB. Where should I start or do you think its life span is over.
I read your article and the thermostat and breaker seem fine. I have a 30 amp panel for the RV. Thank you Randy. I have a Coleman model 8335 Roof Mounted A/C. On shore power it normally works, but on Solar (5000 Watt inverter) or generator (4.5 Kw Onan) it trips breakers.
I found that the running Amps is 14.5 - 16.2, While on shore power, if I turn the A/C's 20 Amp breaker off and then back on, the start up Amps is sometimes 55 - 60 Amps. I replaced the hard start capacitor as well as the fan and compressor caps. The unit blows cold air when working. I need to be able to run this on both generator and inverter. Show Details Necessary HubPages Device ID This is used to identify particular browsers or devices when the access the service, and is used for security reasons. Login This is necessary to sign in to the HubPages Service. Google Recaptcha This is used to prevent bots and spam.
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Question: My RV air conditioner just stopped working. It will not do anything. Where do I start to figure out the problem? It was working just fine, then shut off. Also, what is the out there?
Answer: As you might expect, diagnosing this kind of a problem remotely is difficult at best. Fixing an AC unit can involve knowledge of electrical, mechanical, and electronic systems. There are also many differences between the various air conditioner brands and how AC systems are configured in the multitude of RV types and models. So we can only offer some thoughts on how to approach the problem. And since we are familiar with Dometic Air Conditioners, these suggestions are based on that frame of reference.
In order to troubleshoot the problem, you should have a good mechanical and electrical aptitude, your AC owners’ manual, thermostat owners’ manual and a working knowledge of electronics. Minimum tools needed: Volt/ohm meter (there are many different types available), screwdrivers, diagonal pliers, electrical tape, flash light.
Safety: Remember you will be working on live circuits, moving parts and are going to be on the roof of your RV. Remember to keep your fingers away from moving parts and make sure you do not cause more damage than what you had when you started. It may be more cost effective to let a professional fix your problem. If you don’t feel comfortable or sufficiently knowledgeable about any of the following, then you should take your RV to a competent RV repair shop that specializes in AC repairs.
We are not experts in this area – we are simply offering a few basic areas to check: Start with the obvious, inside the RV:. Is your thermostat on and is it set to a lower temperature than the inside temperature of your RV?. Are the AC circuit breakers tripped? If so, reset them by fully turning them off and then putting them back on. Remove the breaker and using your volt meter, check the power supply to the breaker. If you have power, reinsert the breaker and reset it. Remove the AC cover where the filter normally sits.
Turn on the air conditioner, do you smell or see anything out of the ordinary like obstructions or burned wires?. Check for loose or broken wires. Here you will also see one or more RJ11 connectors and cables (like phone cables). Disconnect them and reconnect them and make sure they are well seated. Chapter 7 study guide for the great gatsby answers.
Make sure you do this one at a time if more than one cable is found, and do not reconnect them improperly. If needed, clean the male end of the RJ11 connection with an eraser, carefully plug and unplug the connections a few times. Go to your thermostat and carefully remove the thermostat from the wall and see if you can disconnect and reconnect the cable. Do a reset of the thermostat if possible (see your owner’s manual for proper steps).
Next – Check things outside: If you still have a problem then you will need to get up on the roof to do further checks and tests. If you are not comfortable working on the roof or working with electricity, don’t do it. Electrical:. Move to the roof and remove the A/C shroud and access panels to the motor and electrical elements. Using your volt meter check for power to the motor If you have power, then make sure that the amperage/voltage readings are good (see your owner’s manual). If you do not see the proper amperage or voltage then you need to check for continuity. If there is a loss of continuity then check the wires for loose, broken, or corroded connections.
You may have to open up connections and redo them. You may have to trace the circuits all the way back to the breakers. The Control Board:. Visually inspect the control board. On our unit, the board is located under the A/C shroud, on the curbside under an access panel. Do any of the connections into or out of the control board look loose, broken, or burnt?.
Do any of the components look discolored or scorched? Is there a smell of burnt insulation?
If you find a loose or broken wire, fix it. If you find something out of the ordinary with the control board then you may be able to replace it or go to an RV repair facility for the repair.
Check the thermistor for proper operation, Connect your volt-ohm meter to the thermistor lead and apply heat to the cooper wire. If there is a drop in resistance, then the thermister is good. If the AC problem is still not resolved and if you feel comfortable and knowledgeable, you could go further to check the capacitor(s) and relays for proper operation.
Personally, we would not do this ourselves and would instead use a qualified service facility with expertise in AC units and systems. If you plan to replace your air conditioner instead, here is a good list of the. You may also want try out a portable air conditioner, which tends to be less complicated and easier to maintain. May 12, 2015 A/C quirk! By: Daniel When using our A/C in our 2014 Coachmen FR Exprs camper for first time, it did a crazy thing.After connecting to Elec. We turned it on and it was running for a few minutes and then fan cut off, but compressor was still running and then the fan came back on in just a few seconds. It did this crazy thing several more times and finally ran normally for the 3 days we camped.
When we got it home and plugged in while we were cleaning, it happened again. What could this be. We bought it from individual in Oct., they had bought it brand new and only used 3 times. This was our first real camping experience in it. We are longtime campers.have owned almost every type over 40 yrs of marriage.
Oct 23, 2014 No light at the thermostat? By: Jose Regarding your 1997 Holiday Rambler AC problem If your thermostat is not indicating a zone or has no readings, then you have lost the communications link between the thermostat and the a/c control board. If you have your a/c operators manual you might be able to follow the instructions for resetting it. This may reestablish the communications link. Or you could remove the thermostat and gently remove the phone like connector at the back of the thermostat and plug it back in. If that does not bring you back then we suggest you contact the a/c manufacturer for help in diagnosing the problem or seek professional help.
Air Conditioners Will Not Turn On by Ben L. (Mountainair, NM) Question: My Acs won’t turn on, even when plugged into the 30 amp outlet. I was going to replace my two 6 volt batteries on my RV. I pulled them out and took them to my local auto parts store and with no luck, went back to the RV.
I reinstalled the two batteries back to the way they were hooked up and now my air conditioners are not working. The lights come on on the thermostats controls but it acts like there isn’t any power flowing to them. Does anybody know what may have happened or how to fix this?
The RV is hooked up to a 30 amp connection, but still nothing. Answer: We suggest you do the following: Reset the outside power breaker Then reset the air conditioning breaker(s) 120 volt side Does the a/c work? If no, continue on only if you are comfortable working on the roof of your RV and you have a basic knowledge of 12 and 120 volt electrical circuits. If you do, then feel free to continue at your own risk.
However, you will need some basic tools like a nut driver or sockets, screw driver and volt meter and or test light. Remember, if you make a mistake it may cost you far more than having a professional take care of the problem. If you do not have a Dometic air conditioner, you can probably still use the same troubleshooting guidelines since they all work about the same. Go to section C15 – look at the diagram below the description for the location of the fuse on the ccc power module. Check the fuse and replace it if needed.
The description in C15 seems to fit perfectly with your circumstances. If this does not solve the problem then you will have a choice to make. Call a professional or go on with your diagnosis. If you feel comfortable continuing, then go to the service manual section E – Trouble shooting – Go to symptom 1 – The unit does not run.
Then chose the correct type of control system that matches your situation. Our guess is that you have a Comfort Control Center. The others are for older type units. Follow the outline under “Cause”, go to Configuration in the next column and it will tell you the section of the manual dealing with that cause (no need to do Fuse, you did that above). Then go to next step and so on.
Hope this helps. Other input welcome. AC Clearance by Joe (New Orleans, LA) Question: When my RV is parked under covered storage and I am running both AC units, how much clearance should I have between the top of the AC and the top of the ceiling to get proper ventilation? Answer: Good question.
We looked through our manuals and the internet but could not find a reference for a overhead clearance for an A/C unit on an RV. Having said that, we suggest that you keep the grill openings clear of any obstructions. We can only speculate that all you need is a few (3-6) inches of clearance overhead, but that is just speculation on our part. Also, have you tried to lower the RV to its lowest height? On our RV we can lower our unit about 8 inches from travel height.
We suggest you call the manufacturer of the RV or AC – or both – to see if they can provide any guidance. Input from other RVers welcome.
AC in Summer Heat by Mike (Mexia, TX) Question: I live in Texas and we get pretty hot down here around July and August. I have a 33 ft RV and it has only 1 AC unit. It is already 105 degrees and the AC runs continuously to try to keep up. Any suggestion about supplementing my cooling. I’ve already added 2 fans. Answer: We assume you already have the shades, windows and any vents closed. You can also buy vent shades if you have vents that let in a lot of heat.
Insulated curtains or reflective windshield shades may also help. If possible, try to find some shade to park under. Or if it makes sense for your situation, build a covered RV carport to park under. It may not be feasible, but perhaps there is a way to supplement your power source to add another air conditioner. And if your circumstances permit, consider going somewhere cooler for the summer months. We invite comments from anyone with other ideas.
Jun 30, 2015 Insulating against summer heat in Texas. By: Anonymous We also live in Texas. I went to Home Depot and purchased a couple of sheets of 4 X 8 insulated wall insulation. The kind they use in home construction. Silver foil on one side white on the other with yellow foam between. I cut a piece for each window and ceiling vent. They reflect all of the sun back out, insulate against AC loss and they keep it dark and cool inside.
You can sleep early or late. Make the ceiling vent piece with a small cutout in one corner so you can pull it out for showering. Cover the edges on this one with duct tape to keep the foam from flaking.
I use it in my homes windows too to keep the power bill down in winter and summer. Saves your blinds and curtains from fading also.
Air Conditioning Not Working by Lori S. (Pascagoula, MS) Question: We checked all breakers and GFI and still no AC. Fan will run and you can hear the compressor try to come on, but it will not. We are first time RVers. We got it home and still no AC – what are we doing wrong? We are so frustrated.
We even had an electrician put in a 30 amp breaker so we could get it ready and have the AC going. 2013 Coachmen Freedom Express 28rld.
Answer: You are not doing anything wrong. The most likely source of your problem is a bad capacitor in the AC unit. This is a cheap and easy fix if you do it yourself (order a new capacitor and install it). However, have you tried going back to the manufacturer? Since you have a 2013 it seems your RV and components should still be under warranty. Even new rigs have failures – hopefully you are still under warranty. If you are not under warranty, you can try to fix it yourself or take the RV in to have the air conditioning fixed.
But even if your warranty is over, we suggest you call Coachmen and/or the AC manufacturer for help. You shouldn’t have this type of problem on such a new rig – they should at least be able to offer some technical assistance.
All the best – please let us know the outcome. Air Conditioning by Doug (Forest, OH) Question: My camper air conditioning will run for a while, then it starts kicking the air conditioning off for a short time, then it comes right back on, then goes right back off. What is the problem? Answer: Your problem is called short cycling. There could be a number of things that can cause this problem, from a misplaced thermostat to a bad control board.
Without knowing the details of your specific troubles, here are the most common causes that might help you troubleshoot:. Thermostat too close to an ac vent. Your compressor coils could be freezing up due to low ambient temperature. Low power to the control board – 120 volts or 12 volt (your ac uses both).
Intermittent problem with the start capacitor. Bad control board. Bad thermistor You should try to consult your ac owners manual for help. If you are unable to resolve this on your own, contact the manufacturer of the AC or a qualified RV air conditioner repair facility. We have had success finding mobile repair people. Other input welcome and best of luck with your AC problem.
I have two AC units on my Class A Newmar Baystar. I left the MH with the AC on and when I returned it was off. There is an E1 code with the zone 2 flashing. Research has indicated that this means the zone 2 AC unit is not communicating with the Dometic controller and thus neither will operate. I've tried powering off and on, including shore power. Should I climb on top of the MH and look to see if there is a loose connection at the AC unit? If so, do I need to remove the AC cover and is that easy?
Is there any special precautions I need to take. Thanks-I'm just looking if there is an easy potential solution.
Kimm, this is a link to a owners manual that might help. Copied the E-1 error info from it. Resting system info. When your unit was installed the appropriate dip switches on the electronic control board were turned on to match your system configuration. Any time these settings are changed, a system reset will need to be done before the CCC 2 thermostat will recognize the updated selection.
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To do a system reset:. Make sure the CCC 2 thermostat is in the OFF mode. Simultaneously press the MODE and ZONE buttons.
The LCD will display “IniT” and all available zones. Release the MODE and ZONE buttons. Press the ON/OFF button to exit system set up. First, I want to thank all of you for your help/suggestions. I tried a total power off system (including house batteries) with breakers and fuses out for 20 min and that did not do anything-except the controller was not showing an error all the time on zone 1-however nothing responded regardless (putting in fan mode didn't respond).
This am I tried the reset, and that did not work, in fact it is showing a zone 4 only and nothing else-so I am assuming it is a bad controller. Are these known for going bad? This unit is just over 3 years old. Luckily the weather is not really requiring heat/cold, so I will wait till I get home next week to replace. Again Thanks. I wanted to let you all know that I got the front AC working, after retrying several of the things above, mainly-turning off all power including the breakers and doing a reset then trying with the generator the front unit is running-This is great!! I did go on the roof but there are 14 rusty screws-I'll let my husband take the shroud off when I get home:).
So I'm happy with the one A/C unit. At least I know that it isn't the dometic thermostat and that it is likely a connection at the A/C unit.
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